Surf Town, Planet Earth

Waves in Pavones, Costa Rica

If he looked back on what his life had been lately, he had perhaps managed two or three days when he had woken up, looked at the sun – or the rain – and felt glad to see the morning, just happy, without wanting anything, planning anything, or asking anything in exchange. Apart from those few days, the rest of his existence had been wasted on dreams, both frustrated and realized – a desire to go beyond himself, to go beyond his limitations, he had spent his life trying to prove something, but he didn’t know what or to whom. -Paulo Coelho, Eleven Minutes

A bunch of girls from Surf with Amigas were taking a boat from Matapalo to Pavones, and offered to let me tag along. The boat would pick us up at Pan Dulce, and one of Michelle’s neighbors generously offered to give me and my boards a ride down on his quad. He dropped me off at the beach parking lot, and I scanned the horizon for a boat. The tide was low, and clean, well-formed waves were breaking around the rocky, cobblestone point on the south end. It was difficult to imagine where a boat would land as the beach break was slamming against the sand and the point was dotted with sharp, shallow rocks poking through the surface of the water.

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A Warm Welcome

A surfer girl's paradise! Empty waves in Costa Rica.

I had stayed nearly a week in a place I had never planned to visit, scored fun and uncrowded waves, and met amazing people. But the signs seemed to indicate it was time to move on. I got a message from my friend Michelle inviting me to come and stay with her in Matapalo. And as it turned out, Leo and Nicole also planned to travel to Matapalo with their friend Luc to look for waves, and offered me a ride down.

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Pura Vida

Jaguar Jungle Hostel at Drake's Bay in Costa Rica.

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I-
I took one less travelled by.
And that has made all the difference.
-Robert Frost

Arriving in San Jose was a little awkward, I definitely was not moving like a turtle in its shell with my giant board bag dragging behind me and had trouble communicating with the bus drivers. Tired of traveling, I decided to head to Dominical, only a few hours bus ride away, rather than making the 10-12 hour trek all the way to Pavones. I met two German girls, Kira and Clara, at the bus station who were headed in the same direction, but traveling a bit farther south to Palmar Norte.

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