I’m registering for the Red Bull Magnitude, a women’s big wave video contest that will run from December 1, 2022 – March 1, 2023 in Hawaii. In order to apply, I need to show proof of my ability to surf big waves. Here is a sequence of photos of me surfing Mavericks on December 13, 2014. That’s me in the bowl and Mark Sponslor on the shoulder. Stoked to share a wave with this legend!
The Overlooked Connection Between Racism and Localism in Santa Cruz’s Surf Culture
Originally published in Santa Cruz Waves Magazine.
When Sterling Whitley first attempted to paddle out at Cowell Beach in the late 1950s, a group of surfers told him he had no business there.
Originally published in Santa Cruz Waves.
“It’s funner than surfing Mavericks,” claims Tyler Conroy, a regular at Mavericks. We are driving up the coast to go surf foiling, a sport I have never tried but Conroy has been obsessed with it since he first set foot on a hydrofoil surfboard two years ago. A hydrofoil is comprised of a long metal mast and two sets of wings that attach to the bottom of the board and allow it to lift above the water. “You feel like a bird,” Conroy says.
Originally published in Santa Cruz Waves.
The treacherous waves of Ocean Beach aren’t exactly a mecca for learning to surf, but that’s where 17-year old Emma Stone cut her teeth. The 2018 Scholastic Surf Series (SSS) State Championship hails from San Francisco’s Outer Sunset, and has been surfing the notorious beach break with her father since grade school. When it comes to her favorite surf spots, “definitely Ocean Beach is No. 1,” she says. “No. 2 is probably Sunset.”
Photo: Sarah Lee.
Surfboard Manufacturers Driving Change
Originally published in Adventure Sports Journal.
A surfer’s board represents the ultimate tool for communing with nature, and conjures images of azure blue waves curling across rainbows of reef. However, this emblem of environmentalism is tainted by a dirty secret.