1 Surfer, 6 Months, 7 Countries

Solid day at Playa Negra.

Originally published in Santa Cruz Waves Magazine.

Maybe I should bring a gun. The thought crashed through my mind without warning, dropping uncomfortably into the pit of my stomach. I glanced at my blue backpack and the fake yellow daisy tied to its strap. The idea of packing a gun into it, or more importantly, pulling a gun out of it, seemed ludicrous.

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Guardian Angels

Guardian angels in El Salvador.

A south swell was on its way, and there was nothing I wanted more than to score Las Flores. One of the most difficult things about surfing is that consistently finding good waves demands complete dedication and spontaneity. If you plan to surf a specific place a month out, chances are slim that the waves will be spectacular. You have to watch, wait, and pounce, with catlike grace and timing. There’s nothing worse than hearing that age old taunt, “You should have been here yesterday.”

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